How to Grow Grapes

Posted on | February 28, 2009 |

It is extremely difficult to be dictatorial about pruning for I had seen large numbers of vastly differing methods practised-and most of them with success!

Therefore, with the ordinary outdoor varieties, all one has to do is to make sure that the soil doesn’t lack in moisture and humus, and once again we gladly accept the straw mulching system as advised for blackcurrants and gooseberries. Clean straw, free from such weeds as clocks and thistles, is put down all over the ground where the vines are growing, to the depth of about 8 inches when trodden down.

Generally speaking, there is no need, as in the case of other fruits, to add a fish manure or hoof and horn to help rot down the straw. If these organic fertilizers are not provided, the straw that is pulled down into the soil by the worms will be rotted down by the bacteria who will, to do this, withdraw some of the existing nitrogen already in the soil. This, therefore, has the right effect in reducing the exuberance of rampant grapevines.

Meanwhile a strong growth will be developing froth the base of the vine rod that was cut back hard in January. This should be allowed to grow upright and should be tied to the stake or wires. Any side growths that develop will be pruned back to one leaf, and if any flower trusses are seen, these will be pinched up.

In all cases it is most important to spread the roots out evenly and only to plant them about 4 inches below the surface of the soil. The earth must he trodden in firmly-this is important and it does mean, therefore, that one can only plant when the soil is not too sticky. After the planting, when the soil is raked down level, the bone meal is applied.

Some people allow two canes to develop each year: they cut one back hard and they train the other one round. This does ensure a stronger growth and the original bearing rod can then be cut right the way back, so as to prevent it growing again.

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